Sunday, March 31, 2013

Warm and Moist: the Return of Spring Weather

Warm weather is back again, and what better way to see it in than with a long weekend!

Rainstorms over Curt Gowdy
After my morning shift at work, Nick and I made it out to Curt Gowdy for the afternoon.  The climbing didn't last long, as the characteristic rolling rainstorms of spring quickly shut us down.  We put up an easy problem called Creekside Squeeze (V1), hiked some, then cleaned and got shut the hell down by a new project.  This thing is a real beast: clean, proud, and hardMy guess is at least V10, since I couldn't even pull the first moveHopefully it'll see a send soon!

Creekside Squeeze
The new compression project
 I also found the most perfect rock penis ever, which I feel compelled to share with the world.

Tell me that's not hilarious
 Saturday was the first Neverland day in months.  I was joined by Spencer and Nicole, as well as Davin and Julian for about 5 minutes in Coal Creek.  A mix-up with the parking situation left us unable to find each other, causing the group to split.

After about 20 minutes of searching for our comrades, we stopped to warm up on The Sienna Rides Again.  I initialy called this V2, but upon repeating it, its definitely V1.  Ironically, the Sienna got a flat tire that day.  Afterwards, I put up a new line on the backside of the boulder that I called Spare Tire (V3).

Nicole on the Sienna Rides Again
Spencer on Spare Tire
  We then walked downhill a ways and came to a prominent overhung face with a long, obvious line.  It traverses left on good jugs to a short crimp sequence and a dicey topout.  After sorting out my head for the mantle, I topped out Buttery Heart (V2).  Nicole and Spencer dropped down for the lip, avoiding the mini adrenaline rush.

Spencer mid-way through Buttery Heart
 With the wind starting to pick up, we relocated to a more sheltered area, not far from the Evening Wall.  There, Nicole put up a nice V0/V1 line and we all worked a long traverse with another cruxy mantle.  After a few burns laced with excessive lichen and a few broken holds, I bailed on the traverse in favor of a nice clean line on the boulder to the immediate right.

The Traverse

Artistic rock shot
After cleaning my problem, I convinced Spencer & Nicole to come work it with me.  Starting on huge jugs,  the line goes up and right where the holds diminish in size, leading to a long cruxy move to a sidepull crimp.  I kept falling at the topout, which I found very frustratingThere's something about falling at the last move of a climb that just makes you go "shit, I did all of that for nothing!"

With the sun retreating and Nicole getting really antsy with the dropping temperature, it came to be crunch time.  After about 10 solid goes, I executed the climb with machine-like precision, and finally finished Emotional Discharge (V5).   Great Success!

At the crux of Emotional Discharge
With my tips shredded, muscles fatigued, and a return drive in complete darkness, it already feels like summer...and I'm sooooo stoked!


  1. The possible V10 squeeze prow in Gowdy has me interested for sure. Maybe we should go for a walk?

    As for Neveralnd, damn, we missed each other by 100 yards at the most. We were at Evening Wall when you were warming up!

    Emotional Discharge is a great problem, but it is a Tad and Oxner problem from last season. Not sure what they named it, if they did. It is likely a third or fourth ascent you nabbed! Well done. The Fridge V8 was put up the same day just to the right of the V5.

    In any case, dump that van or at least get some good tires. The sienna can only ride so many times on those roads.

  2. Oh no! I'll have to get a hold of those guys and see if they're cool with my I'm going to be paranoid I'm unjustly claiming FA's.

    I figured you'd be all about that squeeze prow! Its right off the trail too, wicked easy approach. I'll probably be free to go out there Friday afternoon.

    ...and Bryan's trying to sell me on his Jeep...I'm very tempted